 |
 |
Peak Pioner (4031m), on the left part of the southern wall, category 3B. |
|
|
 |
 
Climbing Peak Pioner on the left part of the southern wall, Category 3B (4,031 m)
The southern wall of Peak Pioner is a whole monolith with four routes: 3B, 4А, 4B, 4B. Approach the beginning of the route via Alpingrad, on the lateral moraine of the Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier.
|
R0 - R1
|
The first wall, 65-70 degrees steep, a lot of places for intermediate spotting. Hooks or marks can be used. The wall ends with a small ramp with set hooks for the stations. |
| R1 - R2 |
An internal angle to the right and up from the station, with hooks for the right level, to the chimney. Move up the fireplace, 7 meters , but not to the end. Go to the vertical wall to the right, 90 degrees steep. It is not long and has a lot of good hitches. The wall goes out to a good ramp. |
|
R2 - R3
|
Traverse to the left along the slant ramp. In about 40 meters there is a good ledge on the ridge. The third station. |
| R3 - R4 |
45 meters along the ridge, rocks of Category 3, with 50-60 degrees steep. Then the route goes along the ridge to the top with spotting.
|
Descent on Pionerski Pass by 1B.
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
