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Peak Amangeldy (3999 m), south-eastern ridge, category 2B |
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Peak Amangeldy (3,999 m), south-eastern ridge, Category 2B
The route begins from the moraine of the Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier. Then, ascend along the talus upwards to the left, to the south-eastern ridge of Peak Amangeldy. The ascent takes 40 minutes. After the ascent, at the edge of the talus and the rocky ridge – the route begins.
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R0 - R1
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A rock wall going out to a lateral ramp. |
| R1 - R2 |
Traverse the ridge to the right on good but small ramps. There are good catches for hands and big steps for feet. The traverse ends in a talus corridor with a good ledge for the station. |
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R2 - R3
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An easy rock wall (very deteriorated). |
| R3 - R4 |
A slant internal angle, sometimes covered with ice. There are hand catches on the left wall. The angle leads out to a small ramp, where a station can be set up on the hooks. |
| R4 - top |
Tilted plates to the left of the station, 10 m , which lead out to the pre-summit ridge. Along the ridge – about 100 m with spotting to the top. |
Descent to the western side along 1B.
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