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Peak Uchitel (4045m), route on the eastern side, category 2A.

   

climbing in Tian Shanclimbing in Tian Shan

 

 Peak Uchitel (4,045 m), route on the eastern side, Category 2А  

  Approach to the route from the moraine of the Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier, on the talus slope towards the Geroyev-Panfilovtsev Pass. 150 m short of the pass, turn left to the corridor. Underneath the wall in the corridor, there is a way like a narrow cleft. The way goes to yet another talus corridor which ends with a rock fireplace in 100 m . This is the beginning of the rock part of the route. 


 R0 - R1
                                               
The chimney is 65-70 degrees steep. Move along it to the end. In the winter and early summer, the chimney is clogged with snow. The chimney goes out to a ramp on the ridge. The ramp is rather wide to accommodate 3 to 4 people at a time. It has a metal rope loop for the station, on the ledge.
 R1 - R2 A narrow horizontal ramp of 5 m.

 R2 - R3 
                                    
A 30-meter wall: move up along it, shifting to the left on a vague internal angle. The rocks are not difficult. Above the wall, there is a ramp with stationary hooks to set up a station.
 R3 - top  To the left of the ramp, along tilted plates, 3 meters, then exit to the talus which leads to the top. There are easy rocks in the form of stone stairs in front of the top.
Descent on the ascending way.
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