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Peak Uchitel (4045m), on the south-western counterfort, category 4B.

   

climbing in Tian Shanclimbing in Tian Shan
 
Peak Uchitel on the south-western counterfort, Category 4B (4,045 m) 
 
The route begins from the lateral moraine of Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier, whence you need to go 150- 200 meters up on the talus up to the counterfort.

 


 R0 - R1 
               
 First wall: straight upwards 40 meters , to the ramp. There are a lot of crack along the way for intermediate spotting.

 R1 - R2  
                                              
 From the ramp, move straight upwards across oblique mushroomings, steepness in some places is 90 degrees. The wall goes out to a slant ramp
 R2 - R3  Rocks in the form of an oblique internal angle. Approach along the angle to the left. It has a place for a station here.
 R3 - R4  Climbing the wall, 10 meters , to the internal angle. About 25 meters along the internal angle to the talus ramp.
 R4 - R5  A big slant talus ramp.
 R5 - R6
 A rock with a narrow crack in the center shifting to the right. Again, a talus ramp in its upper part.
 R6 - R7  An exit from the ramp to the pre-summit ridge along an easy internal angle - 30 meters . Then, exit to the summit with spotting.
Descent by 2А.
The route is almost always going upward, along the counterfort to the top.
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