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Marble Wall peak

   

 Expedition to the Marble Wall peak (6400m)
 
   tien shan expedition
The summit is situated in the Meridianalny range in the very center of the Tian-Shan mountains.
 
This peak is the northernmost summit in Asia.
 
The China-Kazakhstan goes right across this peak.  
 
  
 Details
 Base camp
  • A stationary camp is situated at the height of 3400m above sea level. So the difference of heights between the BC and the summit is about 3000 meters.
  • The base camp is equipped with living tents, kitchen- and dining tents.
 The period of the ascent
  • Due to the most unstable weather conditions in this area of Central Tian-Shan, the duration of the ascent is about 14 days.
  • It’s advisable to divide the ascent into 2 stages: acclimatization and the climb.
 The category of difficulty
  • There are several routes to the sunmmit. The most convenient for the summer period are:
             - Naumenko's route, 4B category
             - Mikhalov's route, 5А category
 Technical peculiarities
  • Of snow-ice character
  • Maximum steepness comes up to 45°
 Season
  • July – first part of September

 Duration
  • From Almaty - to Almaty expedition takes 18 days

 The minimum number of participants
  • 6 persons

 
  climbing in tien shan 
 The first mountaineering group to climb this peak was headed by Naumenko in 1946 and their route was performed along the western ridge.
 
 While an earlier expedition to this district was undertaken by famous German geographer and traveler Mertzbaher who made the first maps of this region in the beginning of the XXth century.
 
 

 
 Itinerary
  Day 1                   
  Meeting at the airport and accommodation
  Day 2
  Drive Almaty – Bayankol – Dzharkulak canyon: 10 hours.
  Night in tents
  Day 3
  Walk from Dzharkulak to Base camp (3400m)
  at the foot of Marble Wall peak:4 hours.
  Setting the camp.
  Days 4-17
  Climbing period
  Day 18
  Descent from the Base camp to Dzharkulak: 3 hours.
  Night in tents.
  Day 19
  Drive Dzharkulak – Almaty. Accommodation.
  Day 20
  Departure
 
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