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Peak Amangeldy (3999 m), south-eastern ridge, category 2B


climbing in Tian Shanclimbing in Tian Shan
  Peak Amangeldy (3,999 m), south-eastern ridge, Category 2B  

The route begins from the moraine of the Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier. Then, ascend along the talus upwards to the left, to the south-eastern ridge of Peak Amangeldy. The ascent takes 40 minutes. After the ascent, at the edge of the talus and the rocky ridge – the route begins.  

 R0 - R1
A rock wall going out to a lateral ramp.
 R1 - R2 Traverse the ridge to the right on good but small ramps. There are good catches for hands and big steps for feet. The traverse ends in a talus corridor with a good ledge for the station.

 R2 - R3 
An easy rock wall (very deteriorated).
 R3 - R4  A slant internal angle, sometimes covered with ice. There are hand catches on the left wall. The angle leads out to a small ramp, where a station can be set up on the hooks.
 R4 - top  Tilted plates to the left of the station, 10 m , which lead out to the pre-summit ridge. Along the ridge – about 100 m with spotting to the top.                              

Descent to the western side along 1B.

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